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Mastering your autofocus settings lets you capture almost anything. Nikkor Z 70-200mm F2.8 @ 77mm | F2.8 | 1/1250 | ISO 110 Photo: Richard Butler |
If you’ve recently picked up your first camera and find yourself frequently getting out of focus images, it may be a sign that you need to tweak your focus settings. While autofocus seems like it should be simple and straightforward, camera manufacturers offer a long list of settings to adjust autofocus performance for different situations. All of those options can be incredibly confusing, especially if you’re new to photography. In this guide, we’ll break down the most basic focus terms and settings to help you identify which are best for you and the subjects you photograph most often.
Focus modes
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| Some cameras have a physical control for autofocus mode, but most will handle it through their on-screen menus. |
The first autofocus setting to consider is your camera’s autofocus mode, which changes how the camera behaves once it starts focusing. Most cameras offer Continuous Autofocus (often referred to as AF-C or AI Servo on Canon) and Single Autofocus (AF-S on many brands, and One Shot on Canon). Many cameras also offer Automatic or Hybrid Autofocus (often called AF-A or AI Focus on Canon).
Single AF
AF-S focuses once, and then locks focus at that distance as long as you keep the button half-pressed. It’s an ideal option when your subject is still, such as landscapes or product photography. This mode lets you focus and recompose if needed, knowing the focus won’t change until you lift your finger.
Continuous AF
AF-C keeps updating focus as long as you hold the button, hence the continuous in the name. It adjusts in real time to moving subjects. As a result, you’ll want to choose AF-C for any moving subjects, such as sports, wildlife, street photography, candid portraiture and more, as the camera will attempt to maintain sharp focus even as the subject changes position. Additionally, most modern cameras are very good at handling AF-C, so is the option we’d suggest most people stick to.
Auto AF
Lastly, Hybrid/auto AF lets the camera decide if AF-C or AF-S is best for a given situation. It’s meant for times when you’re not sure if things will stay stationary or start moving. It doesn’t always do a great job of deciding when to switch, though, and leaving it set to this may limit other autofocus features you can use on certain cameras.
Focus area
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| Cameras give you multiple options regarding where in the frame it focuses. |
The next consideration is the focus area setting. Focus areas indicate where the camera should focus within the frame. Each manufacturer provides slightly different options, but broadly speaking, these options vary from the camera detecting what it thinks should be in focus across the entire frame to ones that let you choose a precise spot.
Wide / Auto
The first option that many cameras offer is a Wide focus area. Many brands use some variation of Wide in the name, while others may call it something similar to Auto-area. This setting hands over control to the camera so it can select where to focus automatically across the frame. It’s a convenient option for casual use, but it doesn’t give you any input into what the camera will focus on. Because of this, you may end up disappointed by the results, especially if your subject isn’t obvious or is partially blocked by something in the foreground.
Zone
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| Many cameras feature preset zone sizes, alongside customizable ones. |
Zone, sometimes called Group area, gives you a step more control than wide/auto. It uses a group or block of AF points that you can move to different areas of the frame. The camera then decides where within that block it should prioritize focus. Like with wide/auto, it favors the closest subject or detected faces, making it good for group shots or sports where you know the player’s general position.
Expanded point
The expanded point option starts from a chosen point, just like single-point AF, but adds a small cluster of surrounding points if the subject drifts off your main selection. It’s an ideal everyday choice for moving subjects such as kids and pets, because it balances control with some camera assistance. It goes by many names depending on your brand, including Expand AF (Canon), Dynamic-area AF (Nikon), Expand Flexible Spot (Sony), Zone (Fujifilm), 1-Area+ (Panasonic) or Group Target (OM System).
Single-point
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| Canon calls its single-point focus area “1-point AF.” |
Single‑point is the most precise option and gives you the most control, but it’s best for still or slow-moving subjects. It lets you pick one focus point and place it exactly where you want sharpness, such as an eye in a portrait. Each brand has its own name for this, but most are something similar to Single-point AF or 1-point AF. Sony, however, calls it Flexible Spot. Some brands will also provide size options for that spot to give you more flexibility.
Tracking areas
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| Some cameras only give you one size of tracking box, while others let you choose from a few options. |
Most modern cameras now offer some form of tracking AF. In this mode, you set your focus point on a subject, and the camera then moves the active point(s) around the frame to keep that subject in focus as you recompose or as the subject moves. It’s an ideal option for erratic motion, such as sports, birds, pets or kids, especially when you combine it with continuous or auto AF and subject detection.
Each camera manufacturer handles tracking areas slightly differently, but there are generally three methods. Some brands allow you to choose any AF area mode and simply toggle tracking on or off. Others create tracking-specific duplicates of each area mode, though only when in AF-C. Lastly, some simply have one Tracking AF area mode (which Nikon calls 3D Tracking).
Subject detection and tracking
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| Canon’s subject selection screen. |
While tracking is a focus area setting, modern cameras also offer additional subject detection and tracking controls in separate menus. These settings are typically layered on top of whatever focus area you choose, meaning you can use your chosen method for selecting a subject while knowing the camera will better track a subject if it’s one it recognizes.
Depending on your camera, you may have access to various subject types, including human, animal, birds and vehicles. With these modes, the camera will search for that specific subject and prioritize it if it’s near your AF point. Additionally, most recent mirrorless cameras support some level of face/eye detection, which means the camera attempts to find faces or eyes within your chosen focus area and prioritizes them.
With each of these, your camera still primarily targets your AF point. That means that if something like a face shows up in the frame that isn’t near your AF point, your camera won’t suddenly ignore where you’ve specified it should focus. As a result, you can generally leave subject detection modes on without worrying that your camera will go rogue trying find faces or trains.
Each brand has its quirks
The above items are a general overview of basic autofocus terms. It’s important to keep in mind, though, that each brand has its own naming conventions as well as quirks associated with all of the different features. In a later article, we’ll provide a more in-depth look at brand-specific quirks so you can confidently set your autofocus for more consistently focused images.